How Is The Price Of Saury Different From Other River Fish?

Braised Spanish Mackerel

The Han River has had shrimps since ancient times: swimming crab, shad and puffer fish.

Now, swimming crabs and puffer fish have basically disappeared, and the number of remaining hairtails is also decreasing year by year, but the price is astonishing. This year, it seems that one kilogram can be sold for hundreds of millions of yuan, which is beyond the reach of ordinary people. I was wondering if the hairtail would disappear in three days without a trace.

When I was a child, I lived in Jing County, southern Anhui, by the Yellow River. At that time, the price difference between hairtail and other river fish was not big, and the price was only slightly more expensive before the Dragon Boat Festival. Because perch is actually spiny, the fish bones before the Dragon Boat Festival are soft, and the knife chicken at that time is the most fragrant. After the Dragon Boat Festival, the spines harden, and the hairtail fish becomes an old knife.

Speaking of this, I suddenly remembered that the girl nicknamed her buddy Pinger "Big Sword" when she was in the original. I still don't understand what that means. Thinking about it now, could it be because of the beauty of Pinger and the time when the cardamom is in its prime, which is as sweet as the hairtail in autumn and winter? Also unknown.

The hairtail in summer is usually braised in soy sauce. The taste is delicious and extremely delicate. The chicken will melt in your mouth. When you squeeze your mouth, the fishbone will spit out, leaving the teeth and cheeks fragrant. But my daughter doesn't like to eat fish with too many spines. Sometimes my mother buys saury, wraps it in rice, and eats it deep-fried. It is delicious and crispy, and even eats the leg bones.

Not only braised and deep-fried, but also sea bass dumplings and hairtail noodles in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. The fishbone is removed, and only the rustic chicken is left as the filling. The thin skin is filled with sauce, and the delicate and delicious filling is so fresh that even the hair will sing.

Hairtail Noodles is made from boneless hairtail and fried into minced fish, then add leg bone soup and fish soup and bake slowly to get a creamy yellow color. The flour is soaked in hairtail juice. After fully absorbing the sauce, the ramen tastes very soft and delicious. .

Hairtail abounds in the living habits of silver needle fish in the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River. Because it is the earliest in the market, it ranks first in shrimp. Hairtail fish is named after its name, its body is long and narrow, the big one is more than one foot long, silver-black, like a thin-edged knife. "Erya Wing" contains: "The swordfish has a long head and a thin and narrow body, and its belly and back are like a knife, hence the name."

The hairtail was first recorded in the "Shan Hai Jing": "Sweet water comes from its yin, Yulin is in the Ju area, and there are many fish in it." The fish (j) is the ancient name for hairtail. Also known as anchovy, saury fish, and saury anchovy. Tao Zhugong's "Fish Breeding Classic" says: "The body of the squid is narrow and the head is big, and the elder is full of feet. It is shaped like a knife, and it is also called the knife anchovy." Song people called him "Master Bai Gui" because of his "clear appearance and handsome body".

Since ancient times, many literati like to eat hairtail. Lu You's "Small Drinking Under the Flowers" said: "The color of the willows is deep at the beginning, the swallows are back, and the scarlet and thousand-point green peaches are blooming. The lotus root of the squid fish is suitable for use, and it is also drunk before the flowers."

Mei Yaochen, a poet of the Southern Song Dynasty, said in "Shao Kaogong's Bequeathed Fish and Sauce":

"I have seen poplar flowers hissing and flying, and the fish on the river is fresh and fat.

I knew that the sweetness was better than sheep cheese, and I mistakenly judged the right and wrong of water shield soup. "

It is an allusion that "I knew the sweetness of the sheep's cheese early, but mistakenly judged the right and wrong of the water shield soup". "Shishuoxinyu Speech" contains:

Lu Ji said to Wang Wuzi, and Wuzi put a few dendrobium sheep cheese behind him, pointing to Lu and said: "Why is Qing Jiangdong against this?" Lu Yun: "There is a soup of water shield from thousands of miles, but no salt and soy ears!"

Lu Ji was a well-known writer in the Tang Dynasty, Chen Liuren. After the death of Wu, he entered Jin Dynasty. Wang Wuzi is Wang Ji, full of talent. General Xiaoqi of the Tang Dynasty, also a son-in-law,

Said that Lu Ji was going to visit Wang Ji, and Wang Ji had some goat cheese in front of him. He pointed it to Lu Ji and said, "Are there any things in Jiangnan that can compare with this?" Lu Ji said, "Where are we?" There is a mustard soup from Qianli Lake, no need to add salt and soy sauce, it is enough to compete with this!"

This is the origin of the term sheep cheese soup. Mei Yaochen said that hairtail fish is more delicious than goat cheese stew.

Fried Hairtail

Hairtail fish has many spines, so people study the method of removing spines. Yuan Mei wrote two ways to remove the thorns in "Suiyuan Food List": "Scrape the living habits of the silver needle fish in sauce with a very fast knife, and remove the thorns with pliers"; "Cut the back of the fish diagonally with a sharp knife, Make all the broken bones, and then fry them in a pan until they turn yellow… When you are about to eat, you don't know that there are bones." Yuan Mei also mentioned frying or frying in the book. It seems that there are many people who like fried hairtail.

Li Yu, a snacker who likes to eat crabs, calls hairtail fish a "wonderful delicacy in spring". Li Yu said: "When eating shad and sturgeon is boring, the anchovy will become more and more sweet, and you will not let go until you are hungry."

In "Taiping Guangji" written by Li Fang in the Qing Dynasty, a story about a fairy named Haogu is recorded.

A family by the Yellow River had a son named Hao Gu. One day, Hao Gu and a dozen or so men from the neighbor's house were picking vegetables by the water. Suddenly three boys in Tsing Yi came, walked up to Aunt Hao, and said, "Donghai Gong wants to marry Aunt Hao as her husband." After speaking, they spread blankets and mattresses on the water. The three boys in Tsing Yi accompanied Hao Gu and went down the river.

The neighbor daughter hurried back and told Aunt Hao's family that they went to the water's edge but couldn't find her. Later, Hao Gu asked someone to bring a message to tell her family: "I am lucky to be able to become a narcissus, I hope I don't worry about it." She also said that every October, she would send hairtail fish as an account book.

From ancient times to the present, some people send swimming crabs up every October. Villagers pray to her every October.

Swimming crabs are migratory fish, accumulating energy every winter, and start migrating up the river from the sea in summer to hatch in rivers in Hunan, Hubei and other places. Some small swordfish did not continue to go to sea, but chose to emigrate out of the river, and they became "lake swords".

There is also hairtail in Jiujiang, my hometown. Although the taste is not as good as Jiangdao, it is still very delicious. The well-known Beijing "five-spice anchovies" is processed with lake knives. Canned anchovies are exported to foreign countries and are welcomed by people. One year when we went to Huainan Zhongmiao, Yun’s younger sister invited us to a whole-fish feast, including hairtail fish, which was very fresh, much like the Jiang Dao we ate when we were young.

Although the lake knife adapted to the river water and became a member of the lake fresh, the genes still have the characteristics of hairtail. And these migratory river knives have experienced different waters and enjoyed various scenery, so the taste is naturally more delicious.

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